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Q: What is aerating or core aeration?
A: Aeration which is also called core aeration is the process of perforating the soil, as well as any thatch layer that might exist, removing a core or plug of soil and depositing that core on the surface to break down.

Q: What are some of the benefits of aeration?
A: (1) Aerating will allow water, air and fertilizer to penetrate all the way down to the root zone. This in turn allows the roots to grow deeper, creating a more healthy and thicker lawn. (2) It will also greatly reduce the chances of having thatch buildup. (3) It will reduce soil compaction. (4) It will create an optimal environment if overseeding for direct seed to soil contact.

Q: How do I know if my yard needs to be aerated?
A: To be honest any yard can benefit from at least an annual aeration. Any areas of high traffic that look worn, yards that don’t green up after fertilizing or brown easily in high heat conditions, yards with poor drainage that have standing water after it rains, and homes built on poor subsoil with clay are all excellent reasons to aerate your yard.

Q: When should I aerate and how often?
A: We recommend aerating twice a year in both Spring ( Mar – May ) and Fall ( Aug- Nov ) for most grass types. At a minimum aeration should be done at least once a year.

Q: What do I do after I aerate?
A: There are a few things you can do right after aerating like fertilizing, overseeding, and watering. What you decide depends on your personal preference and the condition of your yard. ( Reference the next three Q & A’s )

Q: What will I achieve by watering my lawn after aeration?
A: Just watering your lawn after aeration can be very beneficial at helping to break down the cores created by the aeration itself. It also allows water direct access to those newly exposed roots. If you are planning on fertilizing with your watering make sure to read all of the instructions on the fertilizer about when or if it should be watered in.

Q: Should I fertilize after aeration?
A: Yes, now is the best time to fertilize while the holes created by the aeration are still open, allowing access to the root system and before the cores start to break down. Always make sure to use the correct fertilizer treatment for the appropriate season. Also remember not to use a fertilizer with any sort of weed control or crabgrass preventer if you also plan on overseeding. If you ARE NOT overseeding a fertilizer with weed control will be fine to use.

Q: Is it a good idea to overseed after aerating?
A: If your lawn looks thin in places it never hurts to overseed after aeration. Keep in mind if you are going to overseed, plan on having your yard aerated early in the season, so as to give the seed the maximum amount of time to germinate. You should also try to overseed the same day or within a day or so after your aeration while the holes are still open and before the cores start to break down. Just another reminder if you’re fertilizing along with overseeding, DO NOT use a fertilizer with weed control. If you do, your seed will not germinate properly. If you want to fertilize in conjunction with overseeding ( which is a good idea ), just use a starter fertilizer or one without any type of weed control.

Q. How do I know weather or not to aerate or dethatch?
A: Unless you have a thatch layer that is greater than two inches, you would probably benefit more from just aerating because aeration can do two steps in one. It will break up moderate thatch buildup while also reducing soil compaction at the same time.

Q: Can aeration alone fix a yard in distress?
A: The easy answer would be that aeration will always help a yard, but may not be the end all be all. Any good lawn care program should include fertilizing, overseeding, and watering in conjunction with aeration. It should be noted that a distressed yard could be caused by other sources as well, for example various types of bugs and insects.

Q: How long will it take for the cores in my yard to disappear?
A: It usually takes around two weeks for the cores to break down. It can however be longer or shorter depending on weather conditions. Mowing can also expedite core breakdown. You do not want to rake or pick up the cores however, because this will reduce the effectiveness of the aeration.

Q: Can I aerate myself and how much will it cost?
A: Absolutely you can. Most rental chains will charge between $40 -$60 dollars to rent a machine for 4 hours usually. You will also have to find a way to pick up and return the machine, not to mention it can be labor intensive. The other option would be to hire The Aerator Guys, LLC for probably the same price and we do everything for you.

Q: How deep do the aerators penetrate and what is the spacing between cores?
A: Our machines have the potential to penetrate up to 2.75” deep. It can be a little more or less than this depending on your type of soil and how compacted it is. The cores will be spaced approximately every 4”– 6”.

Q: Can I aerate newly laid sod and/or seeded grass?
A: For newly laid sod you should NOT aerate until somewhere between 6–12 months after it has been laid ( it depends on the month or time of year the sod was laid ). For a seeded lawn, aeration should not be done until the seedlings reach maturity.

Q: While aerating can underground utility lines be struck?
A: In most cases underground utility lines are buried deep enough that aeration will not strike them. However, your cable and phone lines in particular are not always buried deep enough and can be struck. Unlike other companies that don’t take the time to mark underground utility’s, The Aerator Guys, LLC utilizes its underground line locating program to prevent these problems from occurring.

Q: Can aeration damage my invisible dog fence or sprinkler system?
A: Yes it can. It is the customer’s responsibility to mark any dog fence or sprinkler head with marker flags that the Aerator Guys, LLC can provide if needed.

Q: If I see improvement after my first aeration, should I still aerate in the future?
A: Yes you should continue a bi-annual or at the very least, an annual aeration program. Aeration should be a continual part of any lawn care program, just like fertilizing, overseeding, weed control, watering, and mowing is. Without it your lawn could easily begin regressing and all of your hard work will have been for nothing.

Look below to find tips on mowing, fertilizing, and seeding to help improve your lawns health and appearance....




Proper mowing of your lawn can help. Follow these rules when mowing...

  • Never remove more than 1/3 the height of the grass blades.
  • Cut your lawn at it’s recommended height. During the summer cut your grass at a higher setting on your mower.
  • Avoid scalping your lawn.
  • Mow your lawn when the grass is dry.
  • Change mowing patterns to avoid ruts in your lawn and to get an even cut.
  • Always mow with a sharp blade. Dull blades can tear grass blades, which can result in what is called “white tip”. The ends of the blades dry out which effects the appearance of your lawn.


Developing a program for your lawn is essential. The most important thing you can do for your grass is to provide it with regular feedings of proper nutrition. A better root system from feedings and aeration will help with heat, cold, drought and other stresses to your lawn.

Early Spring (February – April) Your lawn will be hungry from the winter months and will require nutrients. A spring application will strengthen roots and prepare your lawn for the growing season. A pre-emergent control for crabgrass should be applied at this time.

Late Spring (May - June) Your lawn is using nutrients quickly during this active growing period. You lawn will require a proper feeding for this time. Broadleaf weeds are also growing during this period and will need to be controlled.

Late Summer (July – August) The stresses of summer are affecting your lawn. An application during this time can help with insects and provide nutrients. Follow all product instructions concerning temperatures when applying.

Early Fall (September – October) Fall feeding is one of the most important applications. Your lawn will need to recover from the summer months. An application for broadleaf weeds may also be necessary. This is also a great time to repair any damaged areas in your lawn with seeding before winter comes.

Late Fall (November – December) A final feeding will help prepare your lawn for winter. This application will promote healthy roots for a good spring green up. Roots remain active in storing energy for the winter and for spring.

*Please be sure to follow all instructions and guidelines on all products used to insure proper usage and safety.


Seeding Bare spots/Thin areas – Although your grass will naturally spread and fill in, some areas are too large for that to occur and will require repair and seeding. Here are some simple steps to follow for seeding...

  • Soil preparation - Rough up the soil to approximately 1- 1½ inches to provide a bed for the seed to germinate.
  • Seed – Choose the correct high quality grass seed for the area (Sunny, Shady etc) Spread the seed evenly to ensure proper germination and coverage.
  • Water – The seeds will require constant moisture to germinate. It is best to water more frequently with smaller amounts to keep the top layer moist. This is the opposite of a mature lawn.
  • Mowing – You can mow the new seedlings after about 3-4 weeks or when the seedlings have grown taller than there suggested growing height.